PROJECT SUPPLIES

• Cherish digital kit AND Cherish Borders Elements pack BY ViVa Artistry
• Valentine Sentiments digital stamps by Arty Pants Digital stamps.
• craft metal
• alcohol inks -LATTE, RUST, ESPRESSO, AND PITCH BLACK
• alcohol blending solution
• alcohol ink applicator
• precious metals leafing finish
• oval punch
• Spellbinder dies – SCALLOPED HEART, FANCY TAGS
• E6000 glue, ribbon, paper flowers

Cut the scalloped heart shape using the largest and next largest dies from craft metal.

Add two layers of paint.  Instead of stroking on the paint dab it on so that you are a creating a textured surface on the metal.

I used about a 2:1 ratio of the lighter colors (Latte and Rust) to the darker colors (Espresso and Pitch Black) when I dotted them on my applicator. This was followed with a little squirt of Blending Solution.

Randomly dab the applicator onto the heart shape. Let dry and repeat until you have the desired effect.

I used the pretty flower bouquet from the CHERISH BORDERS ELEMENTS PACK on a background from CHERISH DIGITAL KIT along with a sentiment from the VALENTINE SENTIMENTS DIGITAL STAMPS.  These were sized to fit the heart and my oval punch and printed  out on matte photo paper.

The scalloped heart die was used to cut around the flower. I wasn’t too particular about the edges because they are covered by the metal heart.  I added a little brown ink around the edge to shade the flower.

The Fancy Tags die was used to make a background for the sentiment the same way the heart was made. 

Adhere the sentiment to the Fancy Tag and the flower to the back of the heart.  Small brads were used to attach the tag to the front of the heart.

Small holes were punched at the top of the heart and metal wire was used to create a handle.

A small flower and ribbon was added to the top of the handle.

Thanks so much for stopping by today and have a very sweet and happy Valentine’s Day!

During a recent shopping trip I found the coolest paperweight at the dollar store.  It was backed with a not-so-desirable photograph of a butterfly, but I knew that with a little hybrid magic, I could make it into something spectacular!  For a buck, I was willing to give it a shot!!  So scour your local bargain shops and find yourself a paperweight and play along.  I’ve even seen these at my local craft stores, but your cost would go up, obviously.  Let’s get craftin’, shall we?!

You’re going to need:

• a glass paperweight
• clear glue of your choice (I used Tombow’s Mono Aqua Liquid Glue, what I happened to have on hand)
• digital designs
• felt or cork (optional)

If you want to kick it up a notch (and this tutorial assumes that you do), add to your list of supplies:

• packing tape
• either a laser printer or the ability to make a laser copy of your designs
• popsicle stick or strong nails

I’m using Mari Koegelenberg’s beautiful kit, All Spice.  Be still my beating heart!  I just love the colors in this kit!

1)  The first thing you’ll want to do is prepare your paperweight for crafting.  This may include removing the artwork that’s backing the paperweight using alcohol or Goo Gone to remove any remaining adhesive and washing/drying your paperweight.  I had already removed my butterfly and cleaned my paperweight before writing this tutorial.  I’m so sorry that I’m not able to share that lovely piece of artwork with y’all

2)  Measure your paperweight (approximate is fine).  It’s hard to photograph glass I’ve discovered, but just to give you an idea – - my paperweight is roughly 3 inches tall x 3.5 inches wide.  It is rounded and is beveled so that the back (where the design goes) is slightly smaller than the front.

3)  Begin laying your design out in Photoshop, creating for yourself a shape that is the approximate size of your paperweight.  I created a half-circle that was roughly the size of my paperweight.  Clip all your papers and design elements to this shape.  Once you have your design just as you’d like it, print onto cardstock.  Inkjet or laser prints will work just fine.

4) Any additional elements that will be applied to the front of your paperweight should be chosen, sized appropriately and printed with a laser printer on plain copy paper.   A laser copy will also work.  We’ll be using an image transfer technique for the front pieces and you will need a laser copy/print for this part of the tutorial.

5) Trim all design pieces (paperweight back, design elements for the front).  I didn’t photograph this (sorry!), but I laid my paperweight down on the paperweight back design piece, traced with a pencil and then cut out.

6) We’re going to first apply our art to the back of the paperweight.  Begin with applying a generous amount of clear glue to the back side of your paperweight.  This can be done in several ways, but I prefer to use more glue and clean up any that oozes out rather than not have enough to adhere my image.  Apply your clear glue as shown below.

7)  Place your printed design FACE DOWN onto the glued surface.  Next, flip your paperweight over.  Glue will ooze out somewhat.  It’s okay.  I’ve got damp paper towels on hand.   I like to use the weight of the glass and press and smooth out any bubbles.   By having the paperweight face up, you can see any bubbles quite well (see photo below).  Position the printed design just as you’d like it and then flip the paperweight back over. 

Note:  If you let the paperweight dry face up, the glue could stick to your work surface.

8)  While the first part dries a bit, we’re going to work on the top design.  Trim your pieces, leaving just a bit of white space, and place them face down on a piece of packing tape.  Flip your tape over and with a popsicle stick, burnish the tape so that the design is firmly adhered to the tape.

9)  Trim your pieces again, removing excess tape.  Soak in warm water for 5 minutes.

10)  Remove papers from water and begin gently rubbing the back of the design to remove the paper.  With gentle pressure and rewetting as necessary, the paper fibers should come off entirely and leave behind a clear “rub-on.”  Trim closely leaving just a bit of clear tape around your transparent design.

11)  Apply your rub-on to the front of  your paperweight with a bit of clear glue.  Again, have a damp paper towel on hand to remove any glue oozes.

12)  Let everything dry.  If you would like to back your paperweight with felt or cork, just trim your material of choice to size and apply with adhesive.  I chose not back my paperweight as I plan on displaying it upright at my desk.  Enjoy  your creation!!

I never have enough magnets on our fridge to hold all my kids’ artwork, my endless to-do lists and all the little bits of life I want to keep handy. Bottle Cap magnets are a fun and useful solution, adding a seasonal pop of color and cheer, and helping me stay a little more organized this Christmas season.

Here’s what you’ll need to make a set of your own:

• Holly Day Wishes Page Kit by Pixel Gypsy
• bottle caps (I used six for my set, acquired from the empty Jones Soda and Blue Moon bottles in my recycling bin)
• 3/4″ round ceramic craft magnets
• 1″ circle punch
• E600 glue or other superglue
• Diamond Glaze or ModPodge Dimensional

I began by creating a 4×6 canvas in Photoshop. With the papers and elements I wanted to use open, I created six 1″ circles, clipped my paper to them, and added my elements on top. Print this 4×6, either at home or at a local 1-hour photo (my preferred method), and punch out your circles using your 1″ punch.

Set your punched circles aside for now and glue magnets onto the back of  your bottle caps. A little dab of E6000 or Superglue will have those babies stuck for good!

Now flip them over and add your punched circles inside. I like to use a double-sided adhesive to tack them to the bottom of the cap. This way they don’t float up once I add my top coat of glaze. With all your punched circles fit snuggly into your caps, add a thin layer of Diamond Glaze or ModPodge Dimensional glaze to the top. I like to make a circle around the outer edge, then fill in the middle. Use your finger, a toothpick, or an opened paper clip to pop any small air bubbles you might have floating in your glaze (and DON’T shake the bottle before you open it. That’s a sure recipe for lots of bubbles on your project).

Let your glaze dry completely and you’re done! I added mine to a baking sheet to create a little memo center for my gift lists and favorite cards.

Supplies needed:

• My Digital Obession Boutique Collab Kit
• Brady’s Room Kit by Wishing Well Creations
• White Cardstock
• Photos
• Self-Healing Mat
• Craft Knife
• Score Tool

Print patterned paper on both sides of white cardstock.  I used Floral Pattern from My Digital Obession and Patterned Paper 1 from Brady’s Room.  Cut paper to 3 1/4″ x 10 1/2″.   Fold paper in half and then fold each end in to meet in the middle.

Next, make a template.  Cut a piece of cardstock to 2 3/4″ x 3 1/4″.  Draw vertical lines 1/2″ in and horizontal lines at 3/4″.  Sorry these next pictures are  a little blurry!

Next, draw lines at top and bottom of drawn square 1″ in from sides.

Cut away corners.

Trace pattern onto all four sections and use craft knife to cut as shown:

Score the lines at top and bottom of cut square and erase all drawn lines.  Fold on scored lines, forward and back, as shown:

Add pictures.

And decorations like the sweet heart banner from My Digital Obession and the letters and flower from Brady’s Room.

The back can be used for journaling (or even more pictures).

I think Grandma’s going to love this!

I’d love to see your Swing Photo display if you make one!
Lori

I thought it would be a neat idea to create some ceramic tile coasters using the Coffee Shop Bundle digital kit By Sherwood Studio.

Materials:

• Digital Kit – Coffee Shop Bundle by Sherwood Studio Ceramic
• Ceramic tiles
• Mod Podge –Gloss Lustre
• Distress Ink – Walnut
• Sponge applicator
• Epson Presentation Matte Paper
• Paper Trimmer
• 3/8 inch Self Stick Felt Pads for the bottom of each coaster (4 for each coaster)

I started by creating four 3X3 inch coaster designs in Photoshop Elements.  I wanted the designs to be a bit smaller than the ceramic tile so I could have a border.  I created a design for each each coaster and then printed them on Epson Presentation Matte paper.

I cut out the designs and then painted a thin coat of Mod Podge on each ceramic tile.  I placed a design on each tile and used a brayer to make sure each design was secure.

I let the designs dry for about 30 minutes.  Then I applied a thin coat of Mod Podge over the top of each design. Remember to be very careful when applying the Mod Podge for the first time.  Do not apply too much.  Make sure to let the first coat dry (approximately 30 minutes).  It is easier to apply the next coat of Mod Podge after the first coat is dry.   I applied approximately 3 coats to each coaster.  Let dry completely between applications.

The last step was to apply four 3/8 inch self stick felt pads to the bottom of each ceramic tile so that it won’t scratch tables when you use them.  I am really pleased with how these turned out!

SUPPLIES

• DIGITAL KITS – A BUSHEL AND A PECK BY SARAH JONES,   BRADY’S ROOM BY WISHING WELL CREATIONS
• BLUMENTHAL CRAFTER’S IMAGES PHOTOFABRIC COTTON TWILL
• INKJET PRINTER
• FELT
• SEWING MACHINE OR NEEDLE AND EMBROIDERY FLOSS
• POLYFILL STUFFING AND/OR FUSIBLE BATTING
• CARD STOCK

Begin by choosing some simple elements from the digital kit. I say simple because it is easier to stitch around smooth edges  rather than fussy, complicated ones.  I picked some sweet animals from BRADY’S ROOM BY WISHING WELL CREATIONS, and an apple from A BUSHEL AND A PECK BY SARAH JONES.  I made them about two inches in height so they would fit well on a greeting card but they can be made just about any size. Follow the printing directions on the package of photofabric.

Cut out the images leaving about a 1/4 inch margin around the image.

There are two different looks you  can achieve depending on which type of batting is used.  First I will show how to get a flatter, quilt type of look.  Trim a piece of iron-on batting so that is fits right inside the image and iron it onto the wrong side.

Place the image batting side down onto the felt and pin in place.

Using either a machine or needle and embroidery floss, stitch around the edge of the image just inside the margin along the actual image. I used a small stitch (a two on my machine) and went slowly.  Not difficult – it just takes some patience. Trim the felt leaving a thin overhang around the image. I also stitched around the inner part of the apple on this one to enhance the quilted effect.

This gives a puffed but still a bit flat piece.

Alternatively, if you want something with a bit more dimension, try this technique.  Place the image directly on to the felt without adding the iron on batting.  Stitch and trim as on the apple. Turn the image to the felt side and make about a 1 inch vertical cut of the felt only.

Add a little bit of polyfill until it is as puffy as you like. I used the end of a paint brush to sort of push in the stuffing to the edges.  Do it gently so as not to push through the felt.

Sew up the back.

How cute are those little animals?

They are just a bit thicker than the apple but still fit nicely on a card.  These would be perfect for a baby scrapbook page too!

Thanks so much for visiting today and if you make some puffies be sure to share in THE DIGI CHICK GALLERY!

I purchased several of these kits because I knew it was not something I could make for myself later on, seeing as how I don’t own a laser cutter and would probably have a challenging time convincing my husband that we needed one. However, late one night I had an epiphany – I could duplicate the basics using my die cut machine, dies, chipboard obtained from used cereal and granola bar boxes, and a sheet of transparency film.

Supplies I used:

• Flower Fashion Tea Party digital kit by Paper Garden Projects
• enough used cereal boxes to cut 10 4.25″ scalloped circles
• sheet of transparency film
• Epson Premium Matte Photo Paper
• red line tape (any double-sided tape would work just fine)
• small adhesive dots
• Nestabilities scalloped circle dies
• Nestabilities circle dies
• rhinestones
• ribbon
• 3-D foam adhesive square
• Die Cut machine
• Fiskars Paper Trimmer
• scissors

I opened a canvas in Photoshop that was 4.5″ x 4.5″ and 300 dpi. Then I created a circle using the elliptical marquee tool with a fixed size of 2.5″ x 2.5″. I added a new layer and then used the paint bucket to color the center of the circle. I placed the circle in the center of the canvas and added an inner drop shadow to get an idea of how my completed project could look.

I dragged the individual pieces to an 8.5″ x 11″ canvas and then printed out the document. I cut the paper pieces down to size so they would fit through my die cut machine.

To create the shadow box, I started by using the largest scalloped circle die to cut the base for my project.

Next, I cut 9 scalloped circles with a circle in the middle by placing the plain circle inside the scalloped circle and running that through the die cut machine.

Then I cut the top scalloped circle from the transparency film.

To create the top paper layer, I selected the plain circle die that was one size smaller than the size I had used for the chipboard. This way, the paper would hide the fact that I’m human, and did not perfectly center all of the circles in the pieces of chipboard (as you’ll see in a photo below).

To create the bottom paper layer, I placed my scalloped die on the square, and then placed the top paper layer on top to check my placement. The scallops all have to line up around the outer edge, and I wanted the word art to be visible through the circle.

I hand-cut the teapot, leaving a small white border to achieve a sticker effect.

Then I added a 3-D foam adhesive square to the back of the teapot. I was careful to select a foam adhesive whose thickness did not exceed the thickness of my stacked scalloped circle rings.

Next, I added red line tape to the back of each scalloped circle ring.

I added adhesive to the base printed paper layer and attached it to the bottom scalloped circle.

Once that step was done, I created the shadow box effect by adhering the first ring to the top of the base paper layer and then continued adding the scalloped rings on top of one another to create a stack.

As I previously mentioned, I had to line up my scallops on the outer edge so that they matched perfectly. Below is the photo where you can see that not all of the middle circles are perfectly centered.

I attached the top paper layer to the top scalloped circle ring and also added the teapot.

Finally, I added rhinestones to every other scallop on the transparency film for a couple of reasons: one, to add some additional dimension to the frame and two, to hide the adhesive I used to attach the transparency film to the top paper layer!

To finish things off, I tied a small bow and placed it at the bottom of the inner circle using a small glue dot, and then added a rhinestone to the center of the bow.

I was thrilled at how this project turned out and I can’t wait to make more in different shapes and sizes – I may even make a magnet or two!

I always keep a little notebook with me to jot down ideas and sketches so there I stood…. in Target …. notebook in hand … sketching out how the alphabet letters were positioned so that my “I”, my “♥” and my “U” would line up correctly!!!

Let’s get started with our supplies:

• Dotty Gels: Black alphabet by Mari Koegelenberg
• Dotty Gels: Red alphabet by Mari Koegelenberg
• picture frame
• Red River 60lb. Paper Canvas

First, measure the opening of the frame you are going to use.
Tip: Even if I know what size a frame is, I still measure it. I’ve had to re-print too many projects in the past because it didn’t fit into the frame correctly.

The opening of my frame is 8.5 inches x 8.5 inches so I opened my program and created a new blank canvas using those measurements.

After opening all of the black Dotty Gel alphabet letters and the red Dotty Gel “I” and “U”, begin positioning the letters on the blank canvas in the following manner:

• A through E on the 1st line
• F through K on the 2nd line
• L through P on the 3rd line
• Q through U on the 4th line
• V through Z on the 5th line

Use the grid tool to help you space the letters evenly. Note that I left a border around the edges of my letters.

Replace the “O” with a cute heart from your stash – the heart I used is NOT included in either of the alphabet packs. Mari created the gel heart esp. for this project. Thanks Mari!!

Once you have all of the letters spaced to your liking, merge all of the letter layers and the heart layer together – but do not merge them with your background layer.

Increase the saturation on your alphabet and heart layer before printing for a nice strong color. Add a shadow to the alphabet letters. Merge visible.

Copy and paste your merged layer onto a blank 8.5 x 11 inch blank canvas for easier printing.

Print using your printer’s best print option – I printed on Red River’s Paper Canvas because of the rich, luxurious texture. It’s hard to see in the photo because of the glass.

tip: When photographing projects with glass, remove the glass for the pictures for a perfect photo with no glare!!!
(Unfortunately, I was unable to do this with this particular frame )

Next, trim the printed piece.

Insert your art into the frame and you’re done!

Tip: Save your ready-to-print file to use as a template for any other “I *heart* U” wall art that you may want to create.

If you decide to create your own “I *heart* U” wall art, I’d LOVE to see it so please come back and link me up so I can leave you some luv!!!

LuAnn

Here’s what you will need to make this Memory Box and Frame.

• Hexagon Box Template by Kelleigh Ratzlaff
• Sugar Sands Beach Kit by Etc. by Danyale
• Piece of sturdy cardboard
• Twine or Thin Roping
• Scor-Pal or Scoring Tool
• Hot Glue Gun
• Craft Knife

First, print out your favorite patterned paper, frame and embellishments onto white cardstock. On the back of the patterned paper, print out the box template. You can resize the box to whatever size you like in most software programs. (I made my box a little bigger than the larger size box.)

Now, cut out the box template and score and fold where indicated.  Assemble box and set aside.

Remove the center of the frame with a craft knife. Then cut a piece of cardboard the same width and length as the frame.

Adhere the cardboard to the back of the frame with glue dots or hot glue. Place glue only on the sides and bottom of the frame. Leave top open so photo can be inserted.

Cut another small piece of cardboard. Fold at one end and adhere to back of frame so it can stand. You can also paint the cardboard white or another color to make it look more finished.    

Now you can start to decorate the box as you desire. I hot glued some twine along the edges and the top of the box. I then added my frame and photo and hot glued my embellishments around it. I didn’t adhere my frame to the top. This way it is removable and makes it easier to open the box.

The photo is of my son. It was one of the first times I took him to the lake near our home. I collected some sand that day in a small bottle as well as seashells. They are all stored in the box along with more photos of the day.

This would also work for a wedding, birthday, anniversary, graduation, the possibilities are endless!!  If you make one, I would love to see it too! Just upload it to our Gallery for all to see!!

Hugs…

Melissa

For my shadow box I used the following supplies:

• Matchbox Template Set by Kelleigh Ratzlaff 
• Babycakes Paper Pack by Quirky Twerp
• Sweet Buddy Baby Kit by Danielle Engebretson
• Rocky Mountain Spring by Sherwood Studio
• Babymine: Boy by Mari Koegelenberg
• WordArt Wonders: Vol. 5 by Karen Lewis
• Mini Envelopes Template Set by Kelleigh Ratzlaff
• Shoebox Lid
• Ribbons and Trims
• Copic markers or any coloring medium
• Hot Glue Gun
• Embellishments of your choice
• Photos
• Crop-A-Dile Tool 

First, print our your favorite patterned papers. Then, insert the paper back into the printer and print the matchbox templates out on the back of the patterned paper. Cut out the template and score where indicated.

Assembles the boxes so the printable paper side is on the inside and the template marks are on the outside.

Once you have all the boxes you need assembled, you can then start to arrange them in whatever pattern you like into the shoebox lid. Then can be horizontal or vertical.

There will be gaps in between the boxes. This is ok. You will ‘hide’ these gaps by filling them with ribbons, trims and embellishments. Add trim or ribbon around the perimeter of the shoebox lid to start.

Next, add ribbons and trims to the edges of the individual boxes.

To make the mini envelope, first print out the patterned paper and then print the mini envelope onto the back like you did for the matchboxes. Cut, score and assemble where indicated. 

Wrap a piece of twine, string or hemp cord around the stem of an eyelet and then adhere it to the bottom front of envelope using a Crop-A-Dile tool.

Place a glue dot or some hot glue to the back of 2 buttons.

Adhere the first one to the top flap of envelope and the second one over the eyelet. Your envelope can now be opened and closed with the string. Just loop around the buttons.

Now you are ready to embellish your shadow box as you wish! You can adhere photos into the center of the boxes and add birth information such as baby’s weight, length and birth date.

If you are giving as a gift at a baby shower, you can add ultra sound photos and leave open spaces for pictures of the baby to be inserted at a later date.

You can add little trinkets or treasures such as hair from baby’s first haircut, first tooth,first baby shoes and so on and so on!

These are so fun and easy to make! And, for the price of one store bought shadow box, you can make several! These would also be great for anniversaries, weddings, birthdays or just because!

If you make one, I would love to see it! Upload it into our gallery and come back here and post the link in the comments section of this post so I can see it!  

Have fun creating!!

Hugs…
Melissa